How to Stop Leash Pulling

Leash pulling is not stubbornness or a bid for dominance; it is simply that the world is exciting and dogs walk faster than we do. Pulling also works, because it usually gets the dog where they want to go. You fix it the same way you fix any everyday annoyance: make pulling stop paying and make a loose leash pay instead, with rewards rather than pain.

Why corrective tools are the wrong answer

It is worth being clear: prong, choke, and shock tools “work” by hurting or startling a dog who pulls. Beyond being unkind, they suppress pulling without teaching the dog what to do, and they can create fear or aggression, especially in a sensitive dog. We use a well-fitted harness and teach the dog where we would like them to be. The deeper version of this gentle, reward-based approach runs through the entire reactive dog playbook.

Teach the loose leash

Follow the steps below. The core idea is that being near you pays and pulling stalls the walk. Early sessions are slow and full of stops and starts, which is normal. Keep training walks short and separate from the walks where your dog just needs to move. A find-it scatter is a handy way to reset when your dog gets too far ahead, and the calm check-in of the engage-disengage game helps your dog choose you over a distraction.

Manage arousal and energy

A pent-up dog pulls harder. Make sure your dog is getting enough of the right kind of exercise and rest, because, as with exercise and sleep for reactivity, a well-regulated dog has more self-control to spare. If your dog pulls hardest toward people, the picture may overlap with leash reactivity toward people, and calming that arousal helps the pulling too.

Consistency wins

As with door manners, polite greetings, and counter manners, the fastest way to keep pulling alive is to let it work sometimes. Be consistent, reward the position you want generously, and give it time. A loose, pleasant leash is absolutely achievable with patience and kindness.